A good opening line is golden and 's was just that: "It's 5 a.m.," read the programs placed on our seats inside Paris's Palais de Tokyo. "It's written all over the dresses, whispered through the pieces."

And it was: the highlighted hour was both literal and figurative-models had gothic calligraphy stencils of the designer's time stamp on their necks, and logo pieces came before and after soft sheers (she's known for them) and street-wise ruffles. Is 5 a.m. the end of the night or the beginning of the next day?

Depends on your perspective, doesn't it?

Lea noted, through the program and the black-and-white poster that served as the invitation, that her Fall 2016 collection "draws inspiration from that first metro in the morning, a moment of confrontation between early risers and party goers. "

We've all been there-on one side or the other-but instead of seeing just the contrast or dichotomy, there were pieces that made me believe the two sides might meet in the middle.

Okay, it would take a little doing for those of us on the way out (to work) rather than the way in (from the club), but the essentials are there-ruffled and ruched and taking plenty of hints from the lingerie drawer and the workout room-check the biker shorts-and-skirt combo worn with commuter sneakers.

Like a lot of collections we've seen for the coming season, this one included bright and unapologetic autumn whites. It's a surefire way to say good morning, and maybe it's on its way to edging out black as the go-to color for night.

-Laura Cassidy